Pbus belay technique. 95% of the people I climb with .
Pbus belay technique If someone “spoke up” to me about my belaying I’d be irritated. Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying. Apr 3, 2018 · The safest belay technique is the one that the belayer can perform the best. This way, climbers don’t fall very far when they Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS) Understand belay safety checks. 1. In this video Julie Ellison, Climbing Maga This video explains how to check a climber before climbing and how to belay using the PBUS technique Our Belay Class teaches participants the essential skill of top-rope belaying. Then grab brake strand with LEFT hand ABOVE the right hand. If you really want to get into the nitty gritty details, I suspect that PBAS slower when it comes to building muscle memory and ingraining reflexes such as moving the brake hand down and to the hip when the rope is weighted (ie in a fall). Almost universally, most guides are now teaching the PBUS technique to beginners. About Press Copyright Contact us Creators Advertise Developers Terms Privacy Policy & Safety How YouTube works Test new features NFL Sunday Ticket Press Copyright . Also you don’t have to stoop doing PBUS, it’s okay to keep a little slack between your belay device and your brake hand so you don’t have to reach down as far. Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. The top-roping belay technique commonly known as PBUS resonates with climbing instructors and mentors because it emphasizes the fundamental principles so distinctly. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Dec 1, 2016 · This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. 95% of the people I climb with VERSO Compact, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and for rappelling REVERSO® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor GRIGRI® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, optimized for learning Jun 28, 2018 · While there are several techniques that “belaying” refers to, in general, belaying is the act of exerting tension on a climbing rope to counterbalance the climber when they fall. The PBUS method is a simple, effective way to do this: Pull: Pull your guide hand downward while also lifting the firmly gripped brake rope out and up. PBUS. 161 of Freedom of the Hills, 8th ed. I use PBUS, and as the blog discusses, it's becoming almost universal now to teach beginners PBUS. Photo: Elliott Natz. During this step the hand above pulls down while at the same time the lower hand pulls the rope through the belay device. Feb 13, 2018 · One hand holds the rope above belay device and the other below. PBUS is an acronym for the following: P - Pull B - Brake or Bottom US - Up-Slide In other words, your guide hand is on the line coming out of the device and running up the rock to the climber. B for Brake. The hand transition is securely in the braking position, and it’s hard to imagine the belayer losing control if the climber were to fall while the hand was sliding. For lead belaying, the belayer should slide the brake hand back, sequestering a quantity of slack to be given to the leader. The Belay Class covers: Pull Break Underhand Slide (PBUS) Belay Technique; Gri-Gri belay devices; Proper use and tie-ins of harnesses Jan 16, 2020 · Belaying is arguably the most important skill in climbing so learning how to belay— and how to belay well— is essential! You’ll need to be able to demonstrate your ability to safely and effectively: Tie in correctly with a figure-8 follow-through knot backed up with a safety knot. Apr 28, 2025 · A universal rule for belaying is that your brake hand, which is palm down on the brake strand of the rope, should never come off the rope. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Apr 3, 2018 · There are discussions of PBUS vs slap/slide technique for top rope belays, but I can't find anything about my preferred technique, which is NOT PBUS, but which strikes me as The Best Way (described for right-handed belayer) P and B happen as before: Pull in slack, Brake with right hand. Demonstrate A-B-C positioning Understand belay from above techniques Mar 15, 2016 · When belaying a leader, PBUS will not be a helpful belay technique, because of the need to steadily give slack to a lead climber. Slip-slap-slide is illustrated on p. Oct 22, 2013 · One of the most important baseline skills is toprope belaying. The PBUS method—which stands for pull, brake, under, slide—is a tried and true technique that will ensure your hand never leaves the brake strand, while providing a safe belay. This includes climbing terminology, equipment inspection and usage, proper knot tying, safety commands, and belay technique. When you're belaying a top-rope climber, most of your time is spent taking in slack as the person climbs. Perform the the PBUS belay method. One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Climbing Magazine is producing a series of How To videos in 2012 to demonstrate a number of skills and techniques. Jun 19, 2023 · PBUS. This takes in slack as your partner climbs. The person holding the belay rope, or the belayer, pulls the rope through a belay device as the climber goes up. PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) Technique. All around this is a poor instructional video. During the above step, it is not always possible to keep the lower hand behind the braking plane, especially on lower angle climbs. ktrhilqzzafeatyfzluiwmpngagpelznxixjhqjbbfwgbzvzgrdq